The people
were changing from Arabic to more African and after another couple of days we
got back to the tarmac, the cars were unloaded and we could set off under our
own steam to Agadez We had a couple of days here waiting until the Trans African truck turned up as they had kept some of our equipment. It was the first
time we had been able to make contact back home for several weeks and I managed
to send a telegram to Mary my girlfriend to wish her happy Birthday. We spent the time checking over the cars,
welding rear shock absorber mounts back and general maintenance. We also
visited the Camel market where hundreds of the animals were for sale and if we
were going to return to the desert would have swapped the Mini’s in as they
were much better suited to the conditions!
After
several days the Trans African truck arrived and tried to blackmail us to get
our equipment back, we tried to explain
we were on a charity expedition but they were not interested apart from a
couple who told us where the truck was parked. We quickly packed our personal
belongings, paid the guest house and drove to the truck. We then managed to
retrieve all our equipment and load back into the Mini’s just as some of the
Trans African crew came back. It was then comical as we drove off they were
chasing us waving their fists, luckily we didn’t need to stop for some time and
managed to get away.
We were
heading south to Zinder and away from the desert, road where getting better but
not all tarmac, it wasn’t quite as hot but was getting more humid. In the
markets you could find a greater choice of fresh vegetable and fruit, in fact
all one village sold where water melons!
We crossed
into Nigeria without any issues and into one of the most dangerous regions of
the trip. We stopped for fuel in Kano late at night, filled both cars and went
to pay and they kept all the change and would not give it back. A small crowd
gathered as we then took several bottles of oil and placed inside the car, this
did nothing to defuse the situation and luckily the Police arrived. After
explaining what had happened there was quite a large crowd and we beginning to feel a little
intimidated, but the Police agreed with us, we put the oil back and got our
change. I must admit we drove further than we would normally do in the dark to put some
distance between us and Kano! The roads were very dangerous for several
reasons; many of the truck drivers chewed what they called ‘beetle juice’ they
said it helped to keep them awake, but many of the road may have been wide
enough for two vehicles to pass, but most bridges were single track. So you
imagine two very tired truck drivers head towards a single track bridge,
neither willing to give away, consequently you very often find trucks beside
these bridges severely damaged and sometimes burnt out. The other problem is
the road surface on the straights it is not too bad but on some the bens it
looks like waves in the sea, the heavy trucks have forced the road surface to
sink giving enormous groves in the road
( this is due to the massive corruption in the country and money that should have been spent on roads being siphoned off) that if caught wrong in the Mini’s could cause a major accident
( this is due to the massive corruption in the country and money that should have been spent on roads being siphoned off) that if caught wrong in the Mini’s could cause a major accident
Our next
experience in Nigeria was much more pleasant we stopped at a village just south
of the mighty River Niger and were met by Chief Stephen, a very large gentleman
who insisted he take us on the river and visit his house and wives.
So we climbed
aboard two wobbly dugout canoes and were taken out into the river, it seemed
strange to in these boats that hadn’t changed for hundreds of years under a
very modern road bridge crossing the fantastic River Niger. We met his family
and he then said there was an English company a couple of miles away who were
building a new link road south.
We entered
the compound and were met by several ex pats who were employed to build the
road and as it was by now late in the afternoon we decided to stay and make the
most of the hospitality provided, most of all a proper bed with clean sheets!
That evening we met the MD who explained how dangerous a city Lagos was and we
were welcome to stay with him.
We set off
the following day on the new road, before it was officially opened and headed
apprehensively towards Lagos. We carried some food in the cars but usually
stopped and ate with the locals and in one of these establishments – well it
was a very small box shaped room, well made of cardboard boxes- we were given a curry, which still to this
date is the hottest food I have ever eaten. We tried to hide the smallest
pieces of meat, just don’t ask what meat, in some bread but it still burnt our
mouths and copious amounts of coca cola were required to cool us down.
We
eventually arrived in Lagos, to say this city is a culture shock is an
understatement. To start with the traffic is so bad that on Mondays, Wednesdays and
Fridays you can only drive cars with registration numbers ending in an odd
number and its evens for the remaining days! We saw dead animals and even
people in the street. We were taken to Bar beach where the locals were selling
carvings of the last executions that had taken place that week! We were very
lucky to be staying with the MD of the road building company in is lovely house
on Victoria Island with a gated community and armed guards (two guards who had
the share uniform, unfortunately one was 6 foot the night guard about 5 all his
cloths from shoes to shirt just hung off him).
Originally
the route was to drive from Nigeria through Cameron, but as it took longer to cross
the Sahara and the rainy season arriving early and roads would be washed out or closed,so it was decided to fly the
cars to Kenya. One of our sponsors was Kuhne & Nagel a freight company and
after several visits to their local office it was all arranged. Near bye the
offices we found a local garage and I managed to service and check the cars
through after the arduous road so far. The heat and humidly was stifling and
their working condition horrendous compared to UK.
We parted company with our first cameraman here as he went back to India.
We parted company with our first cameraman here as he went back to India.
We drove the
cars to the airport and to cargo loading bay, here the other problem in Nigeria
raised its head, bribery. The loading staff would not load the cars onto
pallets as it was raining, eventually after ½ hour of arguments we pad the
£80.00 and the cars were loaded, we boarded the same plane and flew to Nairobi.
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